May 11th Merced to Bakersfield

12 May

My day began with the sound of Mark swearing at someone in a call centre half a world away. The wonders of technology! The day appears to be ending in the same way! We’ve both had problems with our phones and card payments refused – presumably because some computer back in the UK wonders what some bloke who hasn’t left Stafford in the last 12 months is doing buying petrol in California. Still I am learning lots of new swear words just from listening to Mark.

Anyway, apart from that it has been a good day. Merced was a fairly nondescript grid-pattern town with no discernible central area. After a massive meal last night at The Branding Iron Restaurant (a popular place with local cattle ranchers apparently), we both passed on breakfast and set off in 90 degree heat down Route 99 through the San Joaquim Valley via Fresno and various other towns. The valley is very flat and agricultural with vineyards and grain silos dotting the landscape. There is a striking contrast between the wealth of the natural resources and the poverty of some of the communities we passed through.

The other thing that dots the landscape is billboards advertising legal services which always feature pictures of the lawyers looking both earnest and shifty in roughly equal measure. We have decided that if we get nicked down here we’ll engage the services of Randy Rumph (I kid you not)! If he can’t get us off, at least we can have a laugh along the way.

After 164 miles we reached Bakersfield and amazingly found the Hilton immediately. Our hotel was actually located somewhere behind there but remarkably the god of hotel bookings had smiled on Mark and our place was pleasingly upmarket too. This was evident when the ever-present Californian welcoming smiles faltered somewhat as two sweaty, dishevelled bikers shambled into their pristine lobby. However they let us book in and we took ourselves down to the large swimming pool which we had to ourselves. It was so good that we’ve decided to stay another day and have a rest day tomorrow.

We’ve just had a sumptuous meal in downtown Bakersfield mainly involving lots of seafood and wine. If you’re ever passing through I’d recommend the blackened salmon at the aptly named “The Mark” restaurant. I’d suggest avoiding the rest of the town unless you have kept your gang membership current (and apparently membership of AAA doesn’t count as a proper gang).

Mark has finally finished swearing at call centre operatives for the day so we’ll probably turn in now or maybe head to the hotel bar for a nightcap.

ps Did I mention there were no pine trees today. We have seen lots of palms and the occasional cactus though.

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